Zurich has something for everyone: lovers of the traditional, historic city get their money’s worth just as much as those looking for the cosmopolitan luxury of Switzerland’s largest city. There are places for sun worshippers and those looking for a shady spot to rest. There are bars and cafés for a quick stop, restaurants, parks and squares where you can stay for a long time and feel the pulse of the city.
Zurich West: modern and lively
This part of the city, once dominated by industry and workers’ housing estates, is now a hotspot for pop-up stores, innovative gastronomic concepts and leisure activities you wouldn’t expect to find in Zurich. You can reach the neighborhood comfortably by S-Bahn in 3 (!) minutes from the main station or by streetcar in about 10 minutes. Alternatively, a walk through the rapidly changing area on the north side of the main station, where the National Museum is also located, offers a great introduction to this Zurich highlight.
Everyone who likes Zurich’s urban and youthful character will find themselves in Zurich West: in Frau Gerold’s garden, dozens of pop-up stores with jewelry, clothing or home furnishing accessories await you, uncomplicated dining options such as bars and food trucks offer local and international dishes and drinks, and a terrace offers a direct view of the surrounding buildings as well as the almost 24-hour operation of the nearby train station. Nearby is the Prime Tower, the tallest building in Zurich. The glass palace would hardly be noticed as a small skyscraper in any Brazilian city, but with most 6-storey buildings nearby, the 36-storey structure stands out impressively on the skyline. On the top floor, there is a gourmet restaurant with a café/bistro overlooking the entire city. Also just a few steps away, the Josefswiese is a green oasis where families barbecue, youngsters play frisbee and badminton, and long-time residents of the neighborhood get together for a game of French petanque. Also on this corner are the viaduct arches, the pride of urban development in recent years: under the tracks of the railway bridge that crosses the center of Zurich, dozens of stores and restaurants have set up in the old stone arches, offering high-quality cuisine, a market, furniture or clothing. Last but not least, Zürich West has a surprise in store: an artificial wave allows surfing fans to practice their hobby in the middle of the city! The waves and the sound of the surf bring a touch of beach life to the city, and it’s worth visiting the place even if it’s just for a coffee, where you can watch the practitioners making their moves or the beginners making their still clumsy attempts.
Pure romance: historic center and steamboat on the way
In contrast to trendy Zurich West, some places in the Old Town offer the pure opposite: at every step through the alleys and squares of Niederdorf and Oberdorf, as well as the Lindenhof district, which form the main part of Zurich’s Old Town, you experience the history of the century-old city and are surrounded by picturesque buildings that convey the feeling of a romantic “old time”. Particularly romantic is the Lindenhof, a tree-shaded square with incomparable views of the Limmat and across to the old town. In the square, chess players play a game on boards the size of a meter, while on the side smaller groups have spontaneous aperitifs and families pose for a souvenir photo. The Lindenhof is just a few minutes’ walk from small inner courtyards near the Bahnhofstrasse shopping street, of which the Zentralhof is probably one of the most worth seeing, with shaded seating that invites you to linger even on hot days, either in one of the small cafés or with a picnic on one of the public benches. On our way through the old town, it took us less than 10 minutes along the Limmat to Bürkliplatz, the (dis)boarding point for the boat trip on Lake Zurich. Here we find the third attraction with a traditional twist. Families in particular, but also friends of the old propulsion technologies, look forward to a ride on a historic steamboat. Two of these impressive ships operate between Zurich and Rapperswil, at the eastern end of Lake Zurich. The long round trip takes around 4 hours and is best combined with a meal on the ship. A slightly shorter alternative is to make the return trip from the “City of Roses” (Rapperswil) by train or private transport. In addition to the boat trip, there are several shorter round trips on the lake basin which, with the breeze, provide a refreshing and scenic change from staying in the city.
Cool off despite the heat
The summer months can also be very hot in Zurich. Temperatures of up to 35 degrees have not been uncommon in recent years, so excursions and activities in cooler places have become more attractive. One of them takes us to the Üetliberg, Zurich’s local mountain. The ascent of the mountain (there is also a walking ascent, but it takes at least an hour and should not be underestimated in terms of steepness) leads directly from the main train station in the center of Zurich, through residential neighborhoods to the nearby forest and over 400 meters in altitude in about 25 minutes. This difference in altitude is one of the reasons for the lower temperatures on the mountain, with the temperature dropping by around one degree every 100 meters. The second reason is the dense mixed forest of coniferous and deciduous trees. Many of the thousands of real Christmas trees that stand in Zurich residents’ living rooms at Christmas and are decorated with real candles (!) grow here and can be selected and cut by families with their children directly in the forest. Once at the top, several hiking and walking trails lead into the forest and finally back to Zurich by train or on foot. For the best view and a cold drink, we recommend the Uto Kulm, with an observation tower that offers views of Zurich and, on a clear day, even the distant Alps, which are covered in snow even in summer. A second option to escape the heat are some historic buildings that have a pleasant and constant climate, even without artificial cooling. Among them are many of the imposing churches, visibly unadorned for visitors from Catholic countries, with their massive bricks and often colorful stained glass windows. The Fraumünster, with its world-famous stained glass windows by Marc Chagall, St. Peter’s Church, with its clock that is the largest in a tower in Europe, and the Grossmünster are worthy of special mention. To these places, which are familiar to most Zurichers, we’d like to add an insider tip that Luci, the founder of Destination Switzerland, has already shown to some astonished guests: she belongs to a small group of guides who have access to a key that leads under the current walls of the old town to places that have been carefully restored and preserved during the city’s renovations! Where is that? You’ll find out if you ask about this “secret place” when planning your trip! ?